What to Plant Under a Mature, Shady Tree

What to Plant Under a Mature, Shady Tree

Life is not easy for plants under a mature shade tree. They have to squeeze their little roots into spaces around the trees larger roots. They deal with a lack of light and there is always competition for moisture and nutrients. You are not crazy for wanting to create a little garden of pretty plants under a mature tree. (Who doesn't want to use every space available! However, in order for this to work, you’ll need to choose carefully. Below are some tips for how to plant under a tree. Please do read them because they can really help you be successful. (Note, these are recommendations for leafy trees, not conifers.)

All that said, here are 12 shrubs and perennials we think you will love. (Of course ferns and many rhododendrons are fine-see a few in the links at the bottom). These will be plenty happy in the shade of a grand old tree.

Ruby Slippers Oakleaf Hydrangea

Ruby Slippers Oakleaf Hydrangea
Zone: 5 – 9

At home in a woodland garden of deciduous trees. Flowers age to pink and foliage turns mahogany in fall. Reaches up to 4′ tall, 5′ wide. Partial shade to partial sun.

Popcorn Viburnum

Popcorn Viburnum
Zone: 5 – 9

Lovely layers are more compact, but still gets big. Best for the outer edges of a tall tree. Flowers in early spring. Reaches up to 8′ tall and wide. Partial to full sun.

Sugar & Spice Foam Flower

Sugar & Spice Foam Flower
Zone: 3 – 8

Love the dappled light of an open canopy tall tree. Charming flowers look like foam on a stick. Generally deer resistant. Up to 1′ tall and wide. Full to partial shade.

Raspberry Splash Lungwort

Raspberry Splash Lungwort
Zone: 4 – 8

Multi-color long-lasting blooms and patterned foliage is lovely with ferns. Deer tend to leave alone. Reaches up to 1′ tall, 18″ wide. Full to partial shade.

All Gold Japanese Forest Grass

All Gold Japanese Forest Grass
Zone: 4 – 9

Excellent gently spreading groundcover. More chartreuse in heavier shade; brighter gold in more sun. Reaches up to 18″ tall and wide. Partial shade to partial sun.

Ruffled Velvet Siberian Iris

Ruffled Velvet Siberian Iris
Zone: 4 – 9

While they love a bog, these iris are equally happy at the canopy edge of a tree. Elegant grassy foliage after spring flowers. Up to 3′ tall clump. Partial to full sun.

Bright Fantasyâ„¢ Snowberry

Bright Fantasyâ„¢ Snowberry
Zone: 3 – 7

Native snowberries are essential as they naturalize so well. Flowers, fruits for birds, winter interest–has it all. Reaches up to 4′ tall and wide. Full to partial sun.

Petite Plum® Ninebark

Petite Plum® Ninebark
Zone: 3 – 8

Appreciates dry to medium moisture and part shade conditions. Best at the outer edges of a mature tree. Reaches up to 6′ tall, 5′ wide. Full to partial sun.

Himalayan Sweet Box

Himalayan Sweet Box
Zone: 6 – 9

Groundcover thrives in even deep shade, and the fragrance of winter blooms is legendary. Deer resistant. Reaches up to 2′ tall and 8′ wide. Full to partial shade.

Origami Blue & White Columbine

Origami Blue & White Columbine
Zone: 3 – 7

Perfect for areas not directly under an open canopy tree (at the fringes is okay!). Draws hummingbirds and butterflies. Reaches up to 18″ tall and wide. Partial sun.

Belgian Hybrid Orange Bush Lily

Belgian Hybrid Orange Bush Lily
Zone: 9 – 11

Massed they brighten the understory space of a mature tree with beautiful spring blooms. Glossy foliage year round. Up to 30″ tall and wide. Full to partial shade.

Red-Leafed Mukdenia

Red-Leafed Mukdenia
Zone: 4 – 9

No garden is complete without a surprise! Turns brilliant red with sweet white flowers. From Dan Hinkley Collection. Reaches up to 1′ tall and 2′ wide. Partial shade.

TIPS FOR PLANTING

  • Choose plants that thrive in shady, and typically more dry conditions.
  • Soil prep is important, however avoid bringing in loads of new soil. No more than two or three inches of new soil should be hauled in. Even that should be worked into the existing soil, digging gently between older main roots close to trunks. And avoid piling soil up on tree trunks, which can lead to decay.
  • Take care when planting so as not to disturb existing tree roots any more than necessary.
  • After planting, cover the area with a thick layer of natural, easily compostable mulch. Such as chopped tree leaves or bark. More than just making things look neater, this will help keep roots of tender new plants moist longer.
  • Finally, don't turn the area into a swamp with daily watering. However, do water deeply and as frequently as needed the first summer or two. And wait until the second year to start pushing new plants with fertilizer. Let them get established in the roots before loading them up with a lot of top growth.

Love it? Shop it!

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2018-09-06 10:12:00
Betta
Why do you exclude planting under conifers?
reply Reply
Jane Loprano
Kate: I cant tell you how much I enjoy your newsletters. The pictures, information, comment as to deer resistance (really important to some of us) makes me want to drop everything, sit down and plan, plan, plan! I wish I discovered you years ago when I was much younger. I sincerely compliment you on the invaluable information you provide...reading it transports me to very pleasant place. Please continue.
reply Reply
sue pisias
Suggestions needed for under a mature Oregon white oak and almost full shade except early in the morning and very late afternoon. In deference to the tree I don't want to water more than about every 2 weeks or possibly once a week very lightly. Vinca and ajuga do fine if I water weekly but I fear that may be too much water for the tree.
reply Reply
Isaac Standifird
I would like to see some discussion/showing of native plants. I will plant natives only.
reply Reply
Sandy Krogh
I want to redo my back yard it is old and looks uninteresting. Part shade and a little full sun. Help need ideas.
reply Reply
Lucia Donahower
Thank you for your suggestions. I have a large Magnolia tree in an all white flower garden. Would love to plant the Popcorn Viburnum, and the Oakleaf Hydrangea. Many thanks for your suggestions. Im located in San Mateo, CA Lucy
reply Reply
Gary Ordway
Hi Kate RE: planting under mature trees, we have western red cedars (20yrs old) which now have open understory - but dry shade and thick root mat. Any hope for evergreen plantings there? Thank you - we love your newsletters
reply Reply
William Sraub Jr
What is the tolerance of plants like the mukademia and sweet box to temperatures of 105 degrees plus that occur in Fort Worth, Texas? Are these plants available in Texas?
reply Reply
SUE FIELDS
LOVE SEEING YOUR POSTS GETTING IDEAS FOR MY GARDENS.
reply Reply
jessiegaylor
It is very important to create a healthy environment around our home, yard and gardens. To have a healthy environment it is necessary to have once a week pest control infestation by consulting some exterminator NJ http://eg-exterminatorsnj.com team at your home which will make a huge difference on maximizing your protection from pest.
reply Reply
Julie
Hi Kate! I love reading your posts - you're always so helpful! I'm hoping you can advise me on planting in my front garden. We live in a townhouse, and the front garden is barren, save for a large, mature maple tree in the center. Per the HOA, we need to fill in the rest of the garden with other plantings. Given that the garden isn't large, we can't give the tree roots much of a buffer zone. To further complicate the issue, the garden faces north, and - aside from a few hours of morning sunlight when the tree is without leaves - receives full shade. We're in zone 7a with clay soil. Can you recommend any plants that would be suitable, and wouldn't harm the maple's shallow root system? I understand they're quite touchy. I'm especially drawn to evergreens, but I know that beggars can't be choosers. Thank you so much!
reply Reply
Jason
In the main picture, what's the taller, wooded plant with the maroonish flowers?
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